Learn perfumer Francis Kurkdjian on creative imagination and his olfactory journey

When his attempt to secure an internship at the Paris Opera Ballet Faculty was unsuccessful, Francis Kurkdjian turned to his other enthusiasm of perfumery.

Because then, the earth has become his stage all the identical – as ‘the nose’ powering some of the most legendary fragrances of our time.

He may be famed for about 40 fragrances produced for some of the most significant fashion and cosmetic makes in the environment – the likes of Jean Paul Gaultier, Elie Saab, Burberry, Versace, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Nina Ricci, Narciso Rodriguez and Elizabeth Arden – but if you question grasp perfumer Francis Kurkdjian what his proudest achievement is, he doesn’t be reluctant for a second. “My olfactory installations. The major to date was in the gardens of Versailles, where by I developed outside scented candles, scented soap bubbles and scented water for the fountains.”

Expressing his craft via creativeness – and in the most unique and surprising means – is at the core of Francis Kurkdjian’s being. “A creative intellect is the most significant necessity for turning out to be a great perfumer. The rest is about functioning hard, and teaching even more challenging,” states the guy who once recreated the (final) Queen of France, Marie Antoinette’s favourite perfume. In 2003, Francis also partnered with up to date French artist Sophie Calle to develop the odor of revenue, and in 2014, for the Nuit Blanche present-day artwork competition in Paris, adopted a collaboration with Syrian artist Hratch Arbach to create the smell of blood.

Born in the eastern Parisian suburb of Gournay-sur-Marne to Armenian mothers and fathers, Francis recollects a lifetime surrounded by artwork, new music, ballet, and many varieties of sport. He discovered to read audio, played the piano, and attended the area ballet university. “I owe to my parents and my grandparents a terrific instruction, a perception of relatives, and factors I contemplate to be great values, these kinds of as humanity and kindness,” he claims.

His earliest childhood memory when it will come to fragrances, scents or smells are also attributed to his household. “The scents of my childhood are surely associated with my family, with just about every member owning anything exclusive about them,” Francis remembers. “My grandfather made use of to dilute his possess cologne. I by no means found the recipe however – I just remember him mixing points and building his possess mix. I was so fascinated by that, and he was a hero to me. My grandmother was a true grandma: caring, loving. She lined me with kisses, and of class her fragrance, Femme by Rochas, which would be imprinted on my pores and skin.

“My late mother had various fragrances. She was incredibly modern day for her generation. From contemporary fragrances these types of as Initial by Van Cleef & Arpels or Fidji by Guy Laroche, to Mitsouko or the to start with fragrance by Karl Lagerfeld. My father wore Kouros by YSL.”

Francis grew up curious about every thing and designed a love of handicrafts. Immediately after a short-lived profession as a classical ballet dancer, he tried his hand at manner structure. But it was at age 14 – just after reading a piece in the pages of a glossy French magazine about famous perfumers like Jacques Polge, Françoise Caron, Jean-Louis Sieuzac and Annick Goutal – that a seed was planted.

“It was a revelation,” he remembers. “A calendar year later, when I was 15, my mind was made up. I would turn into a perfumer.”

In 1990, Francis entered the Institut Supérieur Intercontinental du Parfum, de la Cosmétique et de l’Aromatique Alimentaire in Versailles, and after graduating in 1993 he joined Quest Intercontinental in Paris. All the even though he continued his research, getting a Master’s diploma from the Paris Institute of Luxury Advertising.

What adopted was an illustrious vocation that would see him create a variety of iconic fragrances for some of the most notable vogue and beauty manufacturers such as Le Male for Jean Paul Gaultier, which would go on to grow to be just one of the world’s best-marketing perfumes. Throughout this time, the man or woman that he singles out as a purpose model – a person he respected and appeared up to – is Edmond Roudnistka, the perfumer at the rear of Eau Sauvage by Dior. “I admire him for the way he lifted the art of perfume to a larger degree.”

Then, in a serendipitous moment, his route crossed with that of French-Lebanese businessman and former Ernst & Younger partner, Mark Chaya. “We fulfilled in 2003, and with time, we grew to become pals. We realised that we shared the exact vision of life-style and definition of luxury. Furthermore, we experienced complimentary skilled and innovative skills,” Francis states. “We co-started Maison Francis Kurkdjian in 2009. His vision and perception of organization has been a single of the vital points of the achievements at the rear of Maison Francis Kurkdjian. I am really proud of what we have built alongside one another over the past 12 decades.”

And so he should really be. Today, the market fragrances of Paris-primarily based Maison Francis Kurkdjian – what Francis calls a “wardrobe” of a lot more than 15 collections – can be located in more than 500 superior-close boutiques and division merchants throughout the earth, as properly as standalone Maison Francis Kurkdjian boutiques. Noteworthy creations include things like Aqua Universalis, Amyris (femme and homme), Aqua Vitae, Baccarat Rouge 540, Petit Matin, Grand Soir, and Aqua Celestia.

In May well, his brand launched a trio of fragrances referred to as the Cologne forte assortment – with “freshness” actively playing the foremost role in these new creations.

A staunch defender of the heritage of perfumery, Francis is 1st and foremost a no cost-spirited resourceful mind and a pioneer in several strategies. By his creations, he conveys his modern day eyesight of the perfumer’s occupation and its interpretation in utterly modern fragrances.

When questioned about the process of creating a new fragrance, the grasp perfumer — who was awarded the prestigious Prix François Coty in 2001 for his life span achievements — admits that there is initially a time of reflection for the duration of which he would envision the resourceful territory he wants to check out. “At this stage, it is not about the scent itself, it is about its objective, its meaning. Fragrance is really a mirror of our time in a pretty distinctive sensory way,” he points out.

“Once I have gathered my inspiration, I look for for a title. The title of the fragrance normally arrives initial, and just before the scent alone. It sums up what I want to say – the emotion I truly feel and the tale I want to tell. It’s like the title of a guide or the name of a painting. Then I start out crafting the formula, employing the uncooked elements as terms. When I have a very clear thought on the title and what to do, in which to go with my feelings, I create the components in the lab. Even though it is a staff effort to manufacture and launch a merchandise, the initial imaginative measures are alternatively lonely.”

Inspiration, he easily admits, is drawn from lifestyle, art, trend, couture, and his individual own activities and vision. “Inspiration is the invisible part of generation. So far, my inspirations have not been driven by uncooked materials or particular notes.”

And how did the expression “fragrance wardrobe” appear about? He points out: “The concept of the fragrance wardrobe is an impression and a parallel with couture and style. Our fragrance collections have been developed in the same spirit, as a true fragrance wardrobe. Our Aqua assortment stands for an important piece in one’s wardrobe, a little bit like a white shirt, that you can dress in for any occasion. It is contemporary, functional and genderless. Then there is the ‘easy to wear’ section with pretty casual nevertheless sophisticated scents this kind of as Amyris, Pluriel or À la rose. Our night requirements incorporate extra dressed-up scents like Grand Soir, our OUD assortment, or Baccarat Rouge 540. Each fragrance has its possess olfactive signature for every character.”

The most predictable and noticeable of all questions – his favourite and least favorite things to odor – receives the most uncommon reply: “My favorite odor would be the neck of the particular person I appreciate. It is like a refuge. And a smell I notably despise would be like everyone, the smell of rubbish in the streets…”

Remaining a niche fragrance dwelling also implies the creations of Maison Francis Kurkdjian have charm for a selected kind of discerning shopper. “We are not advertising and marketing-pushed, we are creatively pushed,” he points out. “I really don’t want to you should folks, I want to seduce them with legitimate feelings that are special and lavish, as a result of hugely qualitative products. I create due to the fact I have one thing to say. A writer writes guides, I produce scents – it is my possess way to convey myself. I have famous although that our consumers and I share the similar values: a faculty to be impressed by easy yet attractive items, a sensitivity to aesthetic codes and interest to depth, a perception of harmony and excellent.”

When it arrives to exclusivity, Maison Francis Kurkdjian is also renowned for the very special bespoke fragrances that are established for private customers, with quotations starting from a staggering 20,000 euros.

“My mission when I produce bespoke fragrances is to fulfil the customer’s desires and desires,” Francis describes. “Custom-created scents are the greatest luxury in the fragrance globe. Creating a bespoke perfume is a concern of trust and confidentiality, as you share intimate times and reminiscences. I produce these distinctive fragrances in the study course of brainstorming sessions that make it possible for me to assess the customer’s persona, ecosystem, preferences, and recollections.”

Like any artist, the legacy he leaves driving a person working day is of utmost relevance. For grasp perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, his aspirations are very simple. “As long as my creations are worn, I will be alive.”

This May well will also see the world launch of a trio of fragrances by Maison Francis Kurkdjian, termed the Cologne forte selection – with “freshness” actively playing the top purpose in these new creations. According to a sneak peek Status acquired of the press product prior to the launch, “Aqua Universalis Cologne forte is the idea of whiteness pushed to the intense, a pure breath of fresh air the feeling, not the smell, of cleanliness. Aqua Vitae Cologne forte symbolises the sun at its peak with a floral blaze crossed by a surge of hot air. Aqua Celestia Cologne forte is the come across among the blue hues of the sea and the sky.”

This story initially appeared on Prestige Thailand

Hero impression: Courtesy Maison Francis Kurkdjian  Showcased image: Courtesy François Roelants