I’ve just experienced new cupboards built and, as I moved more than my fragrance assortment a fortnight ago, I chanced upon Diptyque’s Philosykos and considered for a minute about why I ever deserted this sort of an terribly lovely and intelligent scent. In the early 2000s, this cult vintage (£75 for 50ml), all figgy and vernal, was my go-to fragrance, and attracted much more compliments than almost any other has managed. Couple of could recognize it in the commencing, but Philosykos’s unique attractiveness and devout adhering to shortly encouraged a raft of mass-sector copycat fig perfumes that analyzed my tolerance to migraine issue. Lacking the place of the first completely, they had been as well sweet, as well sticky – less ripening fig grove, much more Glade plug-in. Basically, my nose shut down on fig altogether, but now, getting reconciled with my former enjoy, I’ve resolved to reopen to seek out some worthy tributes.
I’m delighted I did, as some expanding up has been carried out and lots of of the syrupy fig scents have fallen, rightly, by the wayside. It’s unusual that I rave about a perfume below £30, but I will do precisely this about Roger & Gallet’s marvellous Fleur de Figuier (£16.90 for 100ml), designed for the dwelling by celebrated perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, whose eponymous tasks can value you 10 occasions as a lot. Fleur de Figuier is a joy – translucent, summery, fruity, citrusy and a tiny fizzy. Like a fig plopped in a jug of Pimm’s, in truth. It’s exceptional worth for anything so vibrant, unsticky and heavenly smelling.
Rather pretty much new from retirement is Jo Loves’ Crimson Truffle 21 (£75 for 50ml), a somewhat not likely but incredibly perfectly-executed tribute to figs and truffles. Like Philosykos, it is properly well balanced between sharp and sweet, and wraps sunny figs in acres of greenery for freshness. But it has a significantly more powerful woody take note and the a bit spiky addition of juniper berry, building Crimson Truffle specially gender-versatile and sensible enough for the place of work, must you at any time find yourself again there.
If price range is of little consequence, test Debaser by Brooklyn perfumery DS & Durga. At £148 for 50ml, it’s at the higher finish of the olfactory hierarchy, but it captures exactly the attractiveness of figs, blending them with creamy coconut, warm tonka bean and a dash of mucky moss. It’s advanced, attention-grabbing and boozy, and, very well, the Pixies reference is the cherry atop the fig tree. That reported, I’m sporting Philosykos correct now and vow hardly ever once again to forsake it.
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